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Yes, there are many reasons living in San Francisco is fabulous but in my top 5 is our proximity to the many wine regions of Northern California. During the Easter break, I took a day trip up to St. Helena to have lunch at Farmstead with my sister and to take in the change of the seasons.
Farmstead is a new restaurant in St. Helena run by the owners of Long Meadow Ranch Winery and Long Meadow Ranch. An ideal set up—they have their own first-rate supply of seasonal ingredients to be inspired by. I had the California halibut with roasted beets, asparagus, lemon and mint which was heavenly. The sauce was rich and buttery with a perfectly balanced profile of Meyer lemon, tarragon and a few other herbs, a delightfully bright homage to the season. But even while enjoying my halibut, I was eyeing the featured grass-fed beef cut of the day at the table next to us. I really wanted to order it but went with the lighter halibut since we were planning on dessert—be sure you do, too! The wine list was one of the most exciting elements about the restaurant. They featured wines from around the world, all extremely reasonably priced and their corkage fee was only $2 (which is donated to a local charity), not typical of the area. I know Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle criticized the decision to pair a menu centered on local foods with a wine list made up of wines from France, Spain, Italy, Slovenia, and Austria. I see his point but I'm okay with it because this wine list truly rocks! They didn’t reach for big brand names, but selected wines of character and more importantly.... GREAT FOOD WINES at GREAT PRICES! The restaurant has only been open for a few months and is still working a few kinks on the service side. All in all, I found the meal, ambience and wine a real inspired find for the area. There are many restaurants I love in the area, but they tend to be more expensive. I think Farmstead did a nice job carving out their niche. During our visit, we also stopped for a behind the scenes tour with a friend at Vine Cliff Winery. The view from the winery was magnificent. On the way home, we HAD TO make a stop at Bouchon. If the French Laundry is a stretch for your budget, then stop at Thomas Keller’s bakery and grab some bread and macaroons. I even bought a foie gras biscuit for my dog Frank! I'm very thankful that we are close to the area and will be back soon for to be inspired by the scenery, great food and great wine.
Florence, the home of many of the world’s greatest art, is where I was inspired by the philosophy of Michelangelo. He saw a soul in the block of marble, and felt that it was his duty to liberate it for the world to see. My 11-year-old daughter, Alex, a gifted artist in her own right, understood this artistic sense of duty. She said, “Sometimes when I look at a blank canvas, I can see what it will become.” As with almost everything, I started to think about how to apply this philosophy to food and wine. The truly artistic chef, like a sculptor, can see the essence of a simple tomato, plum, or chicken and coax out the best flavors. And the same holds true for the truly gifted winemaker—their passion and essential knowledge of the grape is evident in each sip.
One of the reasons I try to focus my wine selections on the small producers from around the world is that I want to taste that passion. The artistry in winemaking exists in the winemaker’s skills and their ability to interpret what the terroir brings them. The wine starts in the vineyard and finishes in the cellar. Michelangelo worked with the simplest of tools: his eyes and hands, a chisel and a hammer. The small winemaker usually has to rely on a similar set of basic tools: a few choice implements and his nose, since they usually can’t afford the state-of-the-art technology that makes everything easier. In the end, they tend to use less process, which, in my humble opinion, leads to unique wines with personality. As in great art, the wine can be extremely reflective of the artist’s skills and thoughts. Though to be fair, this is not to say that large producers can’t impart passion. There are many that can, Ridge Vineyards, for example. I like to track down and find these unique wines, large or small. And I should also say that not all small winemakers have something that should be imparted. Like in art, nothing is cut and dried. There are many winemakers that are following the lead of a great artist: Elisabetta of Montenidoli, Cyril Marès of Mas des Bressades, Bob and Jim Varner of Varner Wine, just to name a few. For my part, I will continue on this quest to present these wines of personality to you. Alex and I were invited to have lunch at the home of Sergio and Elisabetta of Sono Montenidoli. We are greeted outside by Sergio with a refreshing rosato with fried zucchini blossom flowers. OMG! Delicious! We couldn’t stop eating these addicting little treats. The views and the old olive oil urns that have become a part of the landscape immediately had their effect on me, and I began to relax. Sergio, a quiet and contemplative man (makes my Joe look like a Jack Russell in comparison), gives us a tour of the facility. In the winery, I see a nice balance of Old and New world techniques. I ask Sergio if he helps with the winemaking. He replies, “No, I am Elisabetta’s left arm.” “Not the right?” I ask. He explained that Elisabetta does everything and he is the rock. Of course, he did not say it like that, he is much too humble. I can feel the spell of this beautiful place begin to work its magic
We walk back to their home (built in the 13th century by the Templar Knights) and see Elisabetta looking out from the dining room window above. With great enthusiasm, she says (do you best Italian accent here), “Angelina, it is so good to meet you!” That’s it, I’m a goner, I am completely under her spell now. I am in a fog. It was like the soul of the land just greeted me with her voice. It gave me goosebumps. Up in the dining room, they keep their shutters open all of the time because of the 5 swallow nesting there. While we are eating, we are treated to the glory of these beautiful birds. (For those of you thinking, “ooh, that seems unhygienic,” just go with the whole romance of the setting. It was fine.) Over the next few hours, we feast on a multi-course meal paired with their wines and also learn about Elisabetta. Elisabetta is not only a phenomenal winemaker, but is also amazing on many levels. I am getting dizzy from her passion and skill The Menu: First course: Dressed sardines, seafood frito misto and a crudité Wine: Vernaccia Tradizionale 2005 Second course: Fish in parchment with herbs Wine: Vernaccia Fiore 2005 and Il Templare 1999 Thirds course: Braised Oxtail Wine: Il Garrulo 2005(served slightly chilled) Wine: Sono Montenidoli 1995 Fourth course: Salad Fifth course: Gelato with a caramel of sorts on top, a pastry that had noodles in it and some type of baked fruit compote (plums?) Sixth course: Fruit All of the food and wines are excellent. Over lunch, we discuss Elisabetta’s philosophies and the land. Since the mid-60s, Elisabetta and Sergio have owned their 375 hectares (about 926 acres), of which many acres are forest and about 57 acres are vineyards. They have planted about half with Vernaccia and the other half with Sangiovese, with some Canaiolo, Trebbiano and Malvasia thrown in. They were biodynamic from the beginning, far before it was a trend. Elisabetta says, “I am the ‘SSM’ of wine. I am, first, a servant to the land. Second, I am a servant to servants (workers) of the land and I am a servant to Montenidoli”. The idea of this “SSM” is her holy trilogy. She is truly inspired by the land and her house built by the Templar Knights. When she sees her employees in the morning, she doesn’t say, “This is what needs to be done today,” instead she asks, “What needs to be done today?” She continues describing her philosophy, “All my energy goes into teaching the employees of what the land is. I am the land. You have to be pure.” The intensity and passion with which she speaks comes through not only in her voice, but also in her eyes. I feel as is if the land and her soul were one. I ask her about wine trends and, of course, Robert Parker. She says she feels sorry for Parker. “To have only ONE way to taste, drink and enjoy wine is sad. To only enjoy one style is more than unfortunate.” She believes wines come to life and when opening a bottle, she will ask, “With what shall I eat with you?” She loves the whole concept and theory of food and wine pairings and I believe you can see this in her style of winemaking. You can definitely drink them alone, but with food, the party has begun. And saving the best quote for last: “The wine world is full of pedophiles. Everyone drinks their wine too young!” That’s it, the spell is complete. Not only does she have talent, a palate, and wisdom, but wit and a sense of humor to boot. While touring her land with her the next day (she really needs to be in an ad for Land Rover), we see the two very different soils: the deep red, iron-filled soil which is perfect for Sangiovese, and midway up the hills, it is highly calcareous, the perfect terrain for great white wines. We also glimpse yet another project of Elisabetta’s; she has just built a building for the elderly people of San Gimignano. Stop it already…she makes time to give back too??!! I suddenly feel like with even my busy life, it is as if I’m standing still next to this phenomenal person. Elisabetta is a winemaker, a cook, a mother, a wife, a business person, a caretaker of the land and its people and gives back. My daughter and I will never forget meeting her and letting us steal a few hours from her busy life to learn what a truly passion filled and devoted person can do. She is an inspiration as well as a life force. Every time I sip her wines I can taste the land and her inspiration Cheers to Elisabetta for sweeping me away and putting me under her spell. Finally, sommeliers and food/wine fanatics around the world are finding their field of dreams. The game is slowly changing for winemakers to make wine, not just to appease the likes of Robert Parker (or the mass public who don’t know better), but to tantalize a gourmand palate. The wines that I speak of are not flabby, overpowering and have high alcohol content, but ones that have drive and a directed force with all of the elements in balance. They can work with food without overpowering and they have a voice, perhaps not a loud one, but a sincere one.
Some of you may have heard the owner and winemaker for Ojai Vineyards finding fault with his current style of winemaking. This is HUGE! Ojai Vineyards has received top-notch scores from Parker and this is basically saying, “You are wrong, Mr. Parker!” The plan for Adam Tolmach is to pick sooner so he has less ripe grapes. “We got the scores we wanted, but we went away from what I personally like,” Mr. Tolmach says. “We lost our rudder when we went for ever bolder, riper flavors.” The demand is coming from sommeliers and educated consumers that aren’t interested in opulent high power and high alcohol wines. As global warming continues, the wines from California will grow higher and higher in alcohol, making it an impossible task for two people to share a bottle of wine. So I guess global warming is good for one thing, and one thing only—to shake up winemakers to create more wines in balance. The future of wine looks good for those of us who like a bit of subtlety. As the quote goes, “Build it and [they] will come.” Thank you to all who enjoy well-balanced wines and forgo the showy and opulent wines. |
AuthorAngela Camacho, a certified sommelier and author of a best selling wine tool, The Wine Wheel®, shares her obsession with wine and food. Archives
May 2016
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