Meeting Jean-Pierre Cornut - in search of perfection

On my recent to trip to Burgundy, Jeanne Marie de Champs of Domaines et Saveurs took precious time out of her schedule to show us Burgundy through her eyes. One of the winemakers we met with her was Jean-Pierre Cornut of Chateau de la Maltroye.

Before I even laid eyes on Jean-Pierre I knew I was in the right spot. His home and winery were exactly how I envisioned them—not a stone out of place. It truly has to be the tidiest winery I have ever visited.

Jean-Pierre Cornut was an aviation engineer in Paris when his father fell ill in 1992. The family estate soon became Jean-Pierre’s responsibility. His meticulous personality has led him to success: He has transformed a very good estate into a first class estate. He prides himself on having the cleanest cellars in France. In constant search for perfection, he could not miss harnessing the elusive nature of Pinot Noir.

After meeting him and tasting his wines with him and Jeanne Marie de Champs, I completely understand him and his wines. He appreciates art and design. Even though he is very into precision, I get the feeling he understands that all he can do is give structure and support to what his vines give him. You might not say he is a nurturing personality, but it is very apparent that he is extremely passionate about what he does. With his passion comes the endless desire to seek perfection in such a mercurial grape as pinot noir, while handling the body of Chardonnay, and consistently making brilliant vintages.

Don’t worry about Jean-Pierre not getting out to have fun, as I am sure the gorgeous Ferrari in his cellar lets him release any frustration he might have with what nature gives him. Now when I think about how much “drive” his White Burgundies have, I will have a nice picture of his Ferrari in my mind. Amazing wines and a brilliant winemaker. One of his Red Burgundies is featured in this month’s Company Coming but he has many more Burgundies (white and red) that would be a fabulous addition to any wine cellar.

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2010 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet (white) $56

Rated: 88 by Stephen Tanzer, Sep 12

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Pale, bright yellow. Citrus peel and a hint of olive on the nose. Plush, sexy and open-knit but with enough acidity to maintain its shape. The olive element carries through onto the palate. Nicely dense village wine with moderate lift.

2009 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean Rouge $65

2009 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte Rouge $66

2009 Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Vignes Blanches $90

Rated: 91 by Stephen Tanzer, Sep/Oct 11

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bright yellow. Lemon, lime and powdered stone aromas. Then surprisingly fat and open-knit, with good limey lift to the smooth peach fruit. Finishes nicely dry and fresh, with a perfumed floral quality and a hint of warmth. Nicely coats the palate, but this is not a particularly weighty example of Morgeot--or of 2009.