Being a longtime fan of the Ehrharts’ wines, it was an obvious choice to visit Alsace and meet Philippe and Corrine Ehrhart. They are very much like their wines—quiet strength, no flash, completely authentic—they know who they are and where they come from. All of their wines are organic and biodynamic and fermented in stainless steel. Sounds simple, but these days I think it’s harder and harder to come by both.
They are a family business, first and foremost. During our visit we met in the old tasting room, since they were in the midst of large-scale building project. Last year, they completed the new winemaking facility and next year they will be done building their tasting room and cellar. They are moving from the middle of Wettolsheim (just outside of Colmar) to the edge of Wettolsheim, so they have room to grow are closer to La Route des Vins. As soon as the new tasting room is built, Philippe’s parents will move to live atop the new facilities, as this is what they are accustomed to: They need to be “on top” of things. This family has three generations of history hand crafting their product through all phases. Tasting with winemakers, you never know what ground you will cover (pardon the pun), but that is exactly what we discussed: terroir. While we were tasting, Corinne showed me on the map the location of each vineyard site. I was noticing the difference in body between Hengst and Herrenwerg and she noted that is because Hengst is higher in elevation and has a greater amount of red clay, which is attributed to the fuller body. Information like that is invaluable to tasting and understanding wine. If you are ever in Alsace, Colmar is well worth the visit as is seeing the Ehrharts and the neighboring town of Eguisheim. This month in Everyday Libations, we are featuring one of my favorites from the Ehrharts, Pinot Auxerrois. It’s a great summer wine to have on hand to pair with appetizers and salads.
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In Burgundy, I had the good fortune to meet up with Jeanne Marie de Champs of Domaines et Saveurs. She took precious time out of her schedule to give us a glorious afternoon in Burgundy meeting two winemakers whose wines I was familiar with and one new winemaker. Meeting the young and rosy-cheeked Philippe Pernot, grandson of Paul Pernot, was a great way to end the day of tasting. Philippe, raised amongst winemaking, married the daughter of a Puligny grower ,and thus... a winery is born, Domaine Pernot-Bélicard. Philippe is into his fourth vintage. Having just tasted whites from two masterful vintners in the area, it was extremely interesting to taste his wines at the end of the day. While some of his wines didn’t have the preciseness as the elders I had just tasted, they were still great wines and extremely enjoyable. There was a sense of earnestness and drive to all his wines. The wines show great promise for immediate drinking and for the cellar. You can taste his understanding of his vineyards, and his unassuming style really comes through in his wines. The minerality is there, and he lets the uniqueness of each vineyard shine. The highlights from our barrel tasting were the Meursault (Village, $50) and the Puligny Montrachet Premiere Cru Camp Canet ($79). I asked Jeanne Marie de Champs why she had chosen to add Philippe to her portfolio and she said, “I had been tasting his work along the way and seen him work his vineyards.” (She likes to drop by unannounced.) “He understands his vineyards and knows his craft, first and foremost. I see a bright future for him and his wines.” I couldn’t agree more. This month in Company’s Coming we are featuring..... We have also added his other wines to the store. Be sure to sign up to try some. I know, yes I am a wine lover, but I did cheat on wine the other night. The owner of Tacolicious and Mosta, Joe Hargrave, is a colleague of mine. He had a special tequila tasting with a visiting chef from Mexico, Donnie Masterson, who happens to be a mutual colleague and friend. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to check out Joe’s new space in the Mission and to see Donnie again. So with some friends we set our sails for the Mission on a tequila expedition.
Donnie’s food rocked and it paired well with the tequilas presented. He didn’t necessarily stick with traditional Mexican fare, but those flavors definitely prevailed. One of the passed appetizers was a pork and shrimp lollipop with a tamarindo glaze. A welcome modern “pop” to traditional Mexican food, it worked so well with the margarita, and the playful presentation was just plain fun. I actually found the last pairing of an añejo tequila with coconut tres leches cake the most interesting. I was shocked by how the cake brought out chocolate notes from the tequila. My only complaint is that I wish I had ordered a Negra Modela earlier in the night, as sipping tequila alone just didn’t quench my thirst. After a few sips of the cerveza, my palate was cleared, my whistle was wet, and I could enjoy the intricate flavors of the tequila much more. So the next time you are presented with a tequila tasting dinner, order some beer as a companion. You must check out Joe’s space in the mission or the marina. http://tacolicioussf.com And the next time you find yourself in San Miguel de Allende, head to Donnie’s place http://therestaurantsanmiguel.com OK, not really. But it is a complex wine and discussion. Pinot Noir is one of the most difficult grapes to grow, vinify and age. The mercurial grape can change on you in an instant. For this reason alone, I almost never decant when possible. I want to smell and taste every evolution. Many WU members have been asking what differences there are between Pinots, so here we go!
The simplistic statement is Pinot Noir from France (otherwise known as Burgundy) tend to be softer, elegant and earthy when it is great. French Pinot can have big fruit notes but is restrained in comparison to US versions. When it is bad, it seems thin and acidic. The key is balance, subtlety and an element of mystery. Ethereal. California Pinot Noirs are riper and plumper in body and can be more heavy handed—unless you are tasting a Burgundian-style Pinot Noir, that is. It is still a Pinot with regard to tannin level but the ripeness of the fruit and acid level vary greatly. The fuller-bodied styles are very satisfying on the palate to some but can be troublesome for food pairings. So when it’s good, the fruit can be big but balanced with acidity. When it’s bad, it is flabby and the fruit is out of control where there is no finesse at all. Then there is the happy medium—Oregon Pinot Noirs. They tend to exhibit the earthy notes like Burgundy and achieve some of the ripeness of California. They are on the same latitude as Burgundy. When they are great, you get the earthiness and nice fruit components. When it’s bad, it is thin and acidic. So how do you know which Pinot to choose with your meal? If you are in a restaurant or purchasing the wine at retail, ask for a description. If they talk about softness and elegance, you’ll know you are getting a lighter style. If they talk about big fruit and juicy, you have a power-house pinot. Either is good,just set your expectations accordingly. Be open to all the styles Pinot Noir offers and you will not be let down. If you are a hardcore foodie or in the food/wine trade, this book is a must read for you. Seriously. As a sommelier, I am constantly trying to understand food/wine experiences from a professional standpoint and also from a casual diner’s perspective. I cannot make someone like stiff tannins even when paired with a food that will offset the tannins and make the tannins purposeful and tame. Stuckey writes, “The fact is that perception occurs in the mind. As a result, it is virtually impossible to measure accurately. Take the perception of beauty. How pretty is Angelina Jolie? How beautiful is the city of Paris? There is no definitive answer to either of these questions. The answer varies with the individual. Asking about someone’s perception of food is similarly complicated. Each person is biased (and informed) by his own anatomy, genetics and life experience. Taste perception is in the mouth and brain of the beholder.” Stuckey is not that into science, self-proclaimed, but yet she does her homework and enlightens us with what taste is. She examines the taste map of the tongue, the three different types of tasters (tolerant tasters, tasters, hyper tasters), and ways in which our senses experience food and wine. She also gives us exercises to conduct our own research. One major component that I am in complete agreement on with Stuckey is that people don’t slow down and actually evaluate food. As a wine professional we study the appearance first. Is it cloudy? What color of yellow is the white wine? Watery? Viscosity? All this is done before we even put our nose in the glass. Then we smell and taste (two separate steps). Stuckey writes, “ If you really want to taste something, it’s a good idea to keep it in your mouth as long as possible. Put your fork down. Take a few breaths. Chew some more. Swish it around. Then swallow.” If we all did this we would all enjoy our meals more and eat less as you are actually letting your mind and stomach keep pace with the intake. You will reach the full limit of your stomach way before you have over-stuffed yourself and your tastebuds will be sated. That’s it! That is my new weight loss plan! Slow down, savor and eat less. Sounds perfectly enjoyable to me.
I have been working on a fun project lately over at StoneTree Golf Club, a daily fee course, in Novato. We put together a special cellar list to complement the wonderful environs and delicious food being served in the club house. All the wines are from California and very hard to get—aside from the special care to properly store and the age of these wines. Some of the wines on the list are the likes of Kistler, Lokoya, Williams Seylem, Switchback Ridge, Robert Foley, Alban Vineyards, Martinelli and Opus One. Make a day of it and head to StoneTree, even if you don’t play golf. enjoy a lunch or dinner and one of the special wines on the cellar list. All of your senses will be enjoy the day. StoneTree Golf Club 9 StoneTree Lane Novato, CA 94945 Phone: 415-209-6090 www.stonetreegolf.com As Frank Sinatra crooned (or Sid Vicious belted), “Regrets, I’ve had a few.” Yes, I’m no saint, and have made my share of mistakes, as a hostess and as a guest. Recently, a good friend shared an email from a dinner guest with her food concerns. I was horrified and asked if I could to post on my personal Facebook Wall. My oh my, the responses were overwhelmingly ones of disbelief, pity and horror. And yes, this is not a joke, this did happen. Here is the post:
Picky eater alert!!! OMG! This is soooo over the top. These people really should just stay home. I have a few food allergies but I always try it or eat around it. I would never in a million years have a hostess try to conform to this. This is beyond allergies. This was sent to a vegetarian friend who was entertaining: Thank you so much for asking! Due to a sensitive digestive system (past health problems ) & producing breast milk, I do need protein with my food and we really do our best to keep organic especially with (daughter's name).I apologize in advance as this may seem quite challenging but the secret is just to keep the food simple. We eat a lot of just barbecued meat and steamed vegetables.(daughter's name) is pretty easy and will eat a handful of whatever I am eating as long as it's not too spicey. You are right I am keeping her away from sugar, colorings, preservatives etc. Here is what works foodwise for me: YES to: Organic or pesticide free meat & veg Love lamb,chicken,salmon (wild) well cooked, (husband) likes medium rare. Not a big red meat eater, but will eat it if it's organic/ pretty pure (unless I am in final trimester of pregnancy, buffalo (its antibiotic free) can be frozen, beef Dark leafy greens 4 iron,love beet leaf tops favorite, then chard or curly kale, just a few leaves enough Broccoli,asparagus,green beans, artichoke, carrots, zuccini,peas,potatoes,pumpkin, sweet potatoes etc Avocado, ( love, love guacomole), tomato not big on lettuce Eggs & quinoa great,stay light on grains Butter Plain is good we generally steam veg pretty well done, and cook in butter or barbecue NO to: Gluten ( wheat, oats,barley etc ) Bell peppers (green or red peppers) totally intolerant Sugar (maltodextrin,glucose, corn syryp, honey,artifical sweetners like aspartimine ,fruit juices in food) totally intolerant. Agave & stevia ok,occasional glycerin. Watch this as most pre-prepared foods have sugar in them including a lot of smoked food.watch sauces,marinades etc Flavors (artifical or natural) do not digest Not too hot spice wise - I'm a mild, but as I am recovering from a cold garlic and ginger are great, but leave some plain for (daughter). Mushrooms, vinegar Raw meat Onions- occasionally are ok as long as well cooked & small quantity Go easy on the dairy (milk,cheese),often intolerant in newborns,if do it go for goats or sheep products Margarine,deep fried foods hard 2 digest Yeast (don't handle it well) Microwaved food (don't digest well) Soy products(tofu,soy sauce etc) (intolerant) Gsm (Husband) has problem with a preservative often put on lettuce in restaurants we think its a glycerin of some sort. We love fresh fruit but I can not mix it with other food, not that keen on cooked tomatoes either.
Climbing Half Dome is on many people’s bucket list. I can safely scratch it off of mine. Last month, I was part of a group that set out to climb Half Dome as part of a 50th birthday celebration. Sad thing was (happily, the only sad thing about our climb) is that the birthday girl broke her ankle the DAY BEFORE we left! We had to set out on our adventure without our fearless leader.
As many of you know, a big part of any adventure is about the food and wine! On our way to Yosemite, my roomie and I stopped in at a BBQ place in Manteca, Weber’s BBQ. OMG! I haven’t had pulled pork like that in ages. I wanted to cry with happiness during my meal, the pork and the sauce was that good. Intensely spicy but not too hot, and so tender that it melts in your mouth. The owner extraordinaire is Carissa (who is also a preacher) and her helping hand is her son Myles. They welcome you in like it was their home. If you are ever driving through this area, you MUST STOP and say hi to Carissa and eat some of her BBQ! Camping at the Ahwahnee is the only way I will go camping. The architecture is just breathtaking, it almost doesn’t matter what the food was like. Thankfully, it’s pretty good there at the lodge. I say pretty good, it’s fairly spendy but then, you are paying for the incredible view. The wine list was average, with hits from well-known California wine producers, but you could find some gems in there. We selected a few wines from Tablas Creek. The hike went well and the best part about hiking 16 miles is that you can pretty much toss your diet out the window for that night. On our way back to San Francisco, I shared Weber’s BBQ menu with the girls. Everyone called ahead and picked up their dinners to take back to their families. The only problem is that when my roomie and I called, they had been cleaned out of ribs. Majorly bummed for myself but very happy for Carissa to get such great business. She’s working on getting her wine/beer license and I hope to be helping her out with a few selections. Manteca is no longer a place to drive thought on your way to Yosemite, Weber’s BBQ puts in on the map! Webers BBQ: 823 Mellon Ave, Manteca, CA 95337 Tel: (209) 823-4227 Hours: Tue-Thu 11am–7pm; Fri-Sat 11am–9pm; Sun-Mon Closed The Ahwahnee Hotel |
AuthorAngela Camacho, a certified sommelier and author of a best selling wine tool, The Wine Wheel®, shares her obsession with wine and food. Archives
May 2016
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