Three Wolfgangs and a Lagrein

How often do you attend a tasting where 3 out of the 5 panelists were named Wolfgang? Well, I knew I was in the right room, since we were discussing wines from Alto Adige. Alto Adige is the northernmost region of Italy in the middle of the Alps. Since the region is bordered by Austria and Switzerland, the wine labels will not only be in Italian but also German, and apparently, many men are named Wolfgang.

Alto Adige is a small wine area, about 12,750 acres total, which features just over 150 wineries. Out of that, only about 40 export to the US. That's less than 1 percent of Italian production. This area is packed with many microclimates at various altitudes and a warm valley floor. The varying temperatures combined with the varying soil types create a multitude of terroirs. The benefit of the varying terroirs is there are many varieties grown here.

White wine production just edges out red, the whites being Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay Müller Thurgau, Sylvaner, Moscato Giallo, Riesling, Kerner, Veltliner and Riesling Italico. The main red varieties are Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvingon Cabernet Franc, Moscato Rosa, and Malvasier.

Have you heard that bad joke, you know the one: The definition of heaven is where the Germans are in charge of engineering and the Italians are in charge of design and the definition of hell is where the Italians are in charge of engineering and the Germans are in charge of design. There are many variations on this joke, but I like to look at Alto Adige as the best of both worlds: German engineering surrounded by Italian cuisine.

Most wines from Alto Adige are meticulously crafted. Case in point, Pinot Bianco. Historically, this grape has a esteemed background, but today many areas can’t seem to capture the fine nobility of this grape. Even in Alsace, Pinot Blanc is not a grand cru. Here in Alto Adige, Pinot Bianco captures the beauty the Alps. These wines can have an expressive nose of citrus and wet stones with a sense of clean lines. On the palate, it expands and the lines become fast driving lanes that whisks you away.

The Pinot Noirs (sometimes labeled as Pinot Nero) are closer in style to Alsace than Burgundy, but don’t hesitate to reach for them if dinner includes pork and mushrooms. Lagrein is a red varietal that really struts it stuff from this area. An earthy wine that can show spice as well as herbaceous character and is a phenomenal food wine. I haven’t carried them much since the American palate might not like the herbaceous character as much as I, but these are truly a treat to experience.

Today, Alto Adige continues to strive for perfection. They have one of the best cooperative wineries that continues to press for excellence and quality. One of the challenges the wineries in the Alto Adige region face today is global warming. They are finding that their microclimates are changing and are beginning to experiment with other varietals. Tempranillo seems to be one that could be promising for the future. So I guess we will have to add a Spanish punchline to the bad joke. I, for one, will be embracing whatever the area can deliver to us.

Trentino Alto Adige Map © 2006 by James Martin, Europe for Visitors